Pruning guide

How to Prune Tomato Plants

Indeterminate tomatoes benefit from selective sucker removal and good airflow. Determinate bush tomatoes set much of their crop at once and should not be heavily pruned. In both types, remove damaged leaves and foliage touching the soil.

Solanum lycopersicum

Mark cuts on my photo

Best time to prune

During active growth on dry mornings; only indeterminate tomatoes need regular sucker management

How often

Inspect weekly during peak growth

Step-by-step

Confirm determinate or indeterminate

Check the label or variety. Keep pruning light on determinate tomatoes because removing branches can remove much of the future crop.

Remove unhealthy lower leaves

Cut leaves that touch soil or show disease, working upward gradually rather than stripping the stem.

Pinch selected suckers

On indeterminate plants, pinch small suckers from the leaf axils while preserving the main stem and enough foliage to shade fruit.

Tie in the remaining stems

Support stems loosely after pruning so wind does not stress the new structure.

Avoid these mistakes

Do not remove all suckers at once

Do not expose ripening fruit suddenly in very hot sun

Avoid pruning wet plants because disease spreads more easily

Aftercare

Water at soil level

Disinfect tools after diseased plants

Check ties as stems thicken

Frequently asked questions

Should all tomato suckers be removed?

No. Selective removal is useful on indeterminate plants, but some suckers can be kept as productive stems. Determinate plants generally need little sucker pruning.

Can tomato leaves be removed below the first fruit truss?

Older lower leaves can be removed gradually once they age or touch soil, but keep enough healthy foliage to power growth and protect fruit.

Pruning a real tomato plants?

A guide explains the method. A photo can show the exact stems and nodes visible on your plant.

Open photo pruning assistant