Pruning guide

How to Prune Lavender Without Killing It

Lavender stays dense when trimmed regularly while green growth remains low on the stems. Most established plants do not reliably reshoot from bare old wood, so shaping should leave visible leaves below every cut.

Lavandula spp.

Mark cuts on my photo

Best time to prune

After flowering, with a light tidy in spring once new growth is visible

How often

Once or twice yearly depending on climate and variety

Step-by-step

Wait for active growth

In spring, wait until fresh green shoots show which stems survived winter before removing damaged tips.

Remove spent flower stalks

Cut flower stems back after blooming rather than allowing the plant to invest heavily in seed.

Shape the green mound

Shorten this season's leafy growth by roughly one third, creating a rounded shape that sheds rain.

Keep leaves below every cut

Stop before bare, leafless wood unless strong new buds are clearly visible on that stem.

Avoid these mistakes

Do not cut an entire old plant back to leafless wood

Avoid heavy autumn pruning in cold or wet climates

Do not leave a dense flat top that traps moisture

Aftercare

Keep the crown dry and well ventilated

Avoid rich fertiliser

Water only as needed while fresh cuts settle

Frequently asked questions

Can lavender be cut back hard?

Usually not into bare old wood. A hard cut can leave a plant unable to reshoot, especially when no green buds remain below the cut.

Why is my lavender woody?

Lavender naturally forms wood, but missed annual trims allow the leafy growth to move farther from the base. Regular light pruning slows that process.

Pruning a real lavender?

A guide explains the method. A photo can show the exact stems and nodes visible on your plant.

Open photo pruning assistant